The flight to Cape Town was long but thankfully uneventful. I left State College for DC at 2:40, then DC to Amsterdam took 6 hours and put me on the ground at 6 AM, then 2 hours layover before the 12 hour flight to Cape Town. I always get an aisle seat if possible so that I can stretch out my legs and I had thankfully managed to do so for this flight as well. What that meant, however, was that I wasn’t taking full advantage of the view as we flew the entire length of the African continent. After a few hours of sitting I finally got up to stretch out a bit and gazed out the window in the back of he plane and then at one of the video screens that tracked our progress. We were flying directly over the southern border of Niger, one of the areas that I am going to be talking about at this conference, a place I know only from second hand accounts, numbers and computer files. Even now, just after the peak of the rains, the landscape was all shades of brown with occasional bands of green marking the flood limits of the rivers. There were occasional towns visible from 7 miles up, but it was hard to make out the scale of them. I decided that I was going to have a hard time claiming to be an expert on this region from afar and resolved myslef to come and see it as soon as possible. From that point on I was entranced by the windows though the heavy clouds obstructed my view from central Nigeria until somewhere over Angola, at which point the sun was setting and I could only see the mountain tops bathed in the yellow light of the setting sun.
We landed in Cape Town and I was pleased to find that both my luggage and my bicycle made it through customs ahead of me, so none of the anxious waiting for the luggage conveyor to start up. I was picked up by a van and driven 30 minutes to Stellenbosch. The Ryndeveld Country Lodge is a swank little bed and breakfast, though I’m in the slightly less swank, though still pretty nice, Oude Ryndeveld
Guesthouse next door. The proprietor wasn’t expecting me for another day and did a double take when he saw my bike box. He, it turns out, is a mountain biker and is training for the Cape Epic. We agreed to talk bikes in the morning and I headed to the room to get to sleep. Of course, tired though I was, sleep always comes slowly for me in hotels so I built the bike (everything in working order thankfully!) and set up the WiFi to check emails for a bit before finally drifting off around 1AM.
In the morning I lingered in bed until 9:30 before rousting myself for my first real meal in two days. During my “english breakfast” of toast, eggs, baked tomato, and bacon, Boris showed me the town map and pointed me in the direction of a local trail system that I could access from town. Thinking that I was probably still a bit shaky to start riding right away, I decided to set out on a stroll through town to get my bearings. The town was quiet since it is the dead of winter and tourists (and even locals) have all dispersed. The weather, too, was keeping people in doors, the sky was grey with the threat of rain and the temperature was hovering around 12 degrees C. Within a few minutes I came across my first bike shop and then my
second, which made me feel at home. Apparently, had I arrived one day earlier I would have been able to do a XC race, which would have been fun, but completely against my hopes of recovery. I strolled down to the cutesy part of town, full of art shops and African folk art, that borders the University. In one shop I listened to the shop owner explaining the CITES conventions to a european customer who was interested in bringing a zebra skin home but concerned about getting stopped at customs. From there I stopped in for an espresso at an all
too commercial coffee shop (I was already in the door and seated before I realized that this wasn’t the quiet cafe that I was looking for). From there I strolled around again until lunch and chose a quiet cafe advertising comfort food and sat down to a nice bowl of curry and a glass of local red wine. As I sat there the rain rolled in, a drizzle at first that built to a cold bracing shower by the time I’d paid my bill. I gritted my teeth and headed out into it for the three block walk home, pausing beneath each awning before sprinting to the next dry spot.
Back at the hotel I collapsed for a nap for an hour and a half, but when I awoke the
rain had passed and I quickly suited up for a ride. I overdresesed for the weather, not knowing if I was going to get rained on again, or what I might encounter. I also brought two tubes, and a patch kit as the idea of getting stranded in a strange land was unappealing. I headed out to the spot Boris had described but couldn’t find any good access to the trails. I could see them in the hills above me but the trail heads all had signs forbidding bicycles. With a plan to feign ignorance I disregarded the signs and headed up. I puttered around on a set of dirt roads and occasional washed out double track wondering if these could indeed be the trails I’d been promised. Finally, after half an hour of stumbling around I came across another rider who pointed me in the right direction.
Apparently I was heading up the descent and had missed the double track that would have taken me to the top at a grade amenable to singlespeed gearing. But once at the top of the climb I was treated to a nice technical side hill that led me to a collection of short singletrack trails that looped around on each other through Eucalyptus and Pine woodlots. A tore around those trails for a while taking each new turn cautiously so as not to get overcommitted on something that would drop me out in a part of town that I didn’t know. The trails were obviously set up by mountain bikers as there were the telltale banked turns and gold foil GU packets. Once I turned around I was able to ride a bit more confidently as I was no longer worried about getting lost and I got to enjoy the rocky descent that I’d had to walk up earlier. From there I continued to follow the well worn descent through the Eucalyptus on a set of well banked fast turns with
built jumps that was obviously the way I was supposed to get up the hill. At the bottom I was dumped out in an athletic field at the University and peddled around a bit looking for the obvious access point to the trail system. After a while I was convinced that it didn’t exist and that getting on the trails probably neccesitated breaking a few rules, but none that I wasn’t prepared to break.
After I bit of relaxing at the hotel I headed out to check out the nighlife in Stellenbosch. Not that rowdy on a Sudnay night but I did manage to find a pub that served shepards pie and Guinness (Eva told me that fish and chips were the thing to have here but I was saving that for an occasion when I could pick the spot a little better). The bar was full of happy young South African singing along to a lone acoustic guitar singer whose moving rendition of “The Streets Have No Name” was shockingly similar to his equally stunning rendition of Coldplay’s “Yellow”.
Now off to bed. Real work tomorrow. More mountain biking to come.

